Using priming sugar is perhaps the easiest method of carrying out secondary fermentation in a keg, and the one that requires the least investment in new parts. It works in the same way as bottle conditioned beer, in that the brewer must use a priming sugar calculator to determine how much sugar is required to produce the desired level of carbonation. Once a sugar solution is added to the beer, the yeast wakes up and starts converting it to alcohol, producing excess co2.
Simply add your sugar solution to a sanitized keg and transfer the beer onto it. Seal the keg, hit it with a little bit of pressure from a co2 tank, around 30 psi should be enough and allow the pressure to build as the secondary fermentation in the keg gets underway. The reason for injecting the extra co2 is to ensure your keg is tightly sealed, preventing the natural co2 from escaping. This method will increase the strength of your beer, and is also the most likely to introduce oxygen.
On the flip side, it is the easiest to carry out. Below is a table that details the dimensions and volume that each of our kegs and growlers can hold and includes the height of each of the taps. Please ensure you consider the height of both the vessel and tap. Saying that any of the taps can be removed at any time to allow you to store the keg lying down or standing if you have room This will leave the keg with a spear on it this has the valves that the tap connects to this adds 6cm to the height of a keg alone.
Since the secondary fermentation is only for clearing purposes, it will not generate enough pressure to require an airlock. To do this: First, clean and sanitize the receiving keg and fill it with water.
Connect your CO2 tank to the receiving keg and push all the water out through the tap. Now you have an empty keg filled with CO2. So for me, I bottle condition all big beers, and only keg beers that I know I will drink all of.
Ive bottled from the keg before and found it just as tedious and annoying as regular bottling so I don't bother with it. I prefer to do this when adding fruit. In one instance when I used the corney as a secondary fermenter. I just racked it into another corney and all was well. Well, "secondary fermentation" as I use the term is just conditioning, with no more fermentation going on. So no airlock is needed. I ferment my ales in kegs for 2 weeks and then transfer to a corny for conditioning until a tap is open.
If dryhopping in the keg I will use a hop bag. Then chill and carbonate. If moving the keg, I will transfer the beer off the yeast and trub into another corny. Probably close to 10 years and a hundred beers.
This has traditionally been done in a glass carboy. The one advantage carboys have always had over any other vessel is that you can see what is going on inside of them. This is pretty much their only advantage, and an advantage that is arguable. Here we will break down how to use kegs for all they are worth! When it comes to storing, transferring, and clearing their beer, breweries almost exclusively use stainless steel. Normally this would incur a huge cost investment, but not when you use what homebrewers have been utilizing for years — kegs.
They are pure stainless steel, and come with hardware that works extremely well in a homebrew environment. They come with dedicated ports for both gas and liquid.
This is important if you are using them for more than dispensing cold beer, because unlike commercial kegs, the gas and liquid do not have to be hooked up at the same time. They also usually come with a dedicated relief valve, which will be important later on. One thing almost all homebrewers have run into is not having enough beer to fill up to the neck of the carboy.
0コメント